1969 Buick Skylark: One FINE 69!
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My 69 is a mostly stock, Buick Custom Convertible. It has a stock Red exterior with a white convertible top and white (parchment) interior, (black carpet). I fully restored it myself. It is very comfortable to drive. Its weight enables a smoother ride then what our ultra light cars do today. It is a heavy car in cornering, and is not as agile as the lighter newer technology cars of today. It is also a pain to park as so many parking lots are now spaced for “small” cars. (Can you say door ding?) My car is driven near 5000 miles a year. It is mostly driven with the top down, in central costal California areas, (Hwy 1). It handles rain just fine, with no top leaks. I also use this fully restored classic to tow a LARGE (2006 Rockwood Premier 2308) 3200+ pound, 300+ pound tongue weight, tent trailer to go camping in!
Rebuild parts are mostly available, and performance parts can be obtained at Poston Enterprises. The stock 350 is a very reliable and durable BUICK built motor. (Not like a Chevy 350). Buick motors rev lower than Chevy, and I believe that helps their longevity. This car is a real head turner. It is THE style transition car between 60’s to 70’s styling with its side body curved molding, center hood molding, and “gills” behind the front tires. (Most all of that was removed for the 70 model year Skylark).
Performance is average for a 350 pushing so much weight. I would say a little less performance than a Chevy 350 motor as this IS a Buick motor. It will burn rubber, but this car is more about looks, and style (class) than burn outs and racing. It gets about 15-16 mpg on average. I have gotten 18-19mpg at times and have heard of people fuel injecting this 350 Buick motor and getting low 20’s mpg out of it. (Fuel injection parts are near to over $1000.00). When I rebuilt the motor I added hardened valve seats and lowered the compression to a 9-1 compression ratio instead of the stock 10.25-1 as I can now run regular unleaded instead of premium. (You achieve this with aftermarket pistons) To regain the “lost power” from the compression drop I added Poston enterprises; mild cam, 2.5” dual exhaust, headers, re-curved electronic distributor, and other internal engine upgrades. I installed a brand NEW Quadra jet 4 barrel carburetor. I Re-cored the radiator and added an extra row, added an external trans cooler, and a radiator fan clutch from a truck that comes on earlier for towing purposes. I had a shop pre- fabricate a bolt on receiver trailer hitch so I can take the hitch off, if I want. I also added Gabriel air shocks to the rear for load leveling, and KYB’s to the front. Added Front and rear torsion bars to help in cornering, and it helped quite a bit.
After thoughts: If you buy headers, get the ceramic coated ones as pipe headers heat the engine compartment, and your feet up way too much! Do not put “flow masters” mufflers on this car if you want to hold a conversation inside it with the top down! Buy a fully finished classic if you can, it is much cheaper! Re-storing a car is very expensive, (think near $10,000 for a good paint job!), especially if you have the work done for you. If you do “build it” yourself, the advantage is it is DONE exactly how you want it.
Review ID: 10000000009097230

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